Our guide to tissue, dope, thinners and a soft brush.
We have two sets of plans to choose from:
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I like glue sticks for attaching tissue. Krylon is often used instead of clear dope.
I use glue sticks, Pritt glue. The nice thing is that it does not satuate the tissue like liquid glues (tissue paste, pva). You can lift the tissue and reposition it easily, without damaging the tissue.
Since I started tissue covering in 1954, I’ve tried balsa cement, tissue paste, Grip-Fix photo-mounting paste, thinned PVA and Pritt stick, but what works best for me is pre-doping the structure (at least two coats) and attaching the tissue with thinners brushed through. To cover thin sheet balsa (e.g. the tail surfaces of FROG Senior Series models), I use Rustin’s clear cellulose lacquer rather than clear dope, as it’s completely non-shrink and doesn’t cause warping.
I would like to get the plan of the “Dixielander” vintage power
We have a Dixielander plan in our Model Flyer plans set, see http://www.modelflyermagazine.com